My curing chamber / kiln: @Milwaukeeace

[Milwaukeeace]

So this is an upright freezer I got for free. I used it as a kiln at first with a small humidifier and a crockpot. I bought an Inkbird thermostat switch and an Inkbird humidistat switch on Amazon for $45 each. I later added a muffin fan, or a large computer fan, from a local store called American Science and Surplus for $25. To fully round out my ability to monitor the system I got a Govee temp/humidity monitor that is bluetooth and wifi. It has 3 sensors and one sending unit thatballows me to track it with an app on my phone. One is in the kiln, one is in my wine fridge humidor, and one in my kitchen till I find a better use for it. I think this device was around $60, also on Amazon.

This setup cost me a total of about $200 but allows me 95% full control of the environment inside. I say 95% because when being used as a curing chamber the temp and humidity slowly, but steadily, rise. I find it necessary to crack the door open for periods of time to keep the heat and humidity down. Green leaves add a TON of humidity to the box and it is a.bit putsy to keep things around 90 degrees and 70% humidity, but its easier to crack the door than to add a cooling system or automatic venting system, this was after all a non working freezer unit. The fan provides a HUGE amount of airflow and Ive had no mold issues whatsoever.

As a kiln however, with cured and dried leaves, the system is flawless holding a 130 degree 70%-80% humidity environment. I have to refill the humidifier every 3 days or so but it has a removable tank so the door is only open a few seconds with out much environmental loss.

Anyhow, just thought Id share. Ive seen a lot of systems and methods out there and since this worked so well for me I thought Id pass it along.

 

[Knucklehead]

Great job! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Levi Gross]

Nice build. I did something similar a few years back. However, my inkbird controls didn’t have a very long life expectancy. Both are fixable. I contacted inkbird and they sent me a new humidity sensor, I just haven’t got around to soldering it. My next project is just going to be a full on walk in cure chamber/humidor.

 

[HillDweller]

Nice. I'm thinking of going the freezer route as well. Just waiting for a free one to manifest. Need to keep the cost down, but I did already buy a temp controller.

 

[tullius]

That's the cleanest looking free freezer I've ever seen, nice score

 

[loui loui]

Nice curing chamber!
I am also using an inkbird thermostat and an inkbird hygrostat but I cure in a grow tent instead of a freezer.
For heat I have a 220 Watt light with a dimmer, it is connected to a thermostat but it is on all the time.
The hygrostat is connected to an extraction fan and a circulation fan inside the tent, when the humidity falls below 67.5% the fans stop until the humidity rise again, it takes a minute or so.
I also have a humidifier in the tent but I want to upgrade it to a xiaomi humidifier that can be set to a fixed value, I had great success with such a humidifier before, the current humidifier only has three modes so it is less responsive.

What temperature and humidity should I aim for?

Currently I cure at 77°-78°F and 68%RH, is it good?

 

[deluxestogie]

Currently I cure at 77°-78°F and 68%RH, is it good?

Curing (also known as color-curing) is that process that is usually carried out while tobacco hangs in a barn or shed that is at least partially exposed to ambient weather conditions. For color-curing, the leaf transitions from living green to dying yellow to dead brown. Typically, during curing season, the ambient weather should range from 50-80°F, with the 3-day average relative humidity (RH) staying above 60%. The higher the RH during the color-cure, the darker the leaf will become.

Once a color-curing leaf has colored to brown, it needs to be allowed to dry, so that it will not rot. Then it is ready to begin aging or kilning.

["Curing chamber" is often also applied to a container—a tobacco kiln—used for fermentation (or heat-assisted aging). This is a different process with different conditions.]

Bob

 

[loui loui]

Curing (also known as color-curing) is that process that is usually carried out while tobacco hangs in a barn or shed that is at least partially exposed to ambient weather conditions. For color-curing, the leaf transitions from living green to dying yellow to dead brown. Typically, during curing season, the ambient weather should range from 50-80°F, with the 3-day average relative humidity (RH) staying above 60%. The higher the RH during the color-cure, the darker the leaf will become.

Once a color-curing leaf has colored to brown, it needs to be allowed to dry, so that it will not rot. Then it is ready to begin aging or kilning.

["Curing chamber" is often also applied to a container—a tobacco kiln—used for fermentation (or heat-assisted aging). This is a different process with different conditions.]

Bob

Ok then I guess my tobacco will be dark.
I have set the humidity at minimum 67.5% but sometimes it passes up to 75% and I don't know why yet.
I have read that mold need water and 80% humidity to grow so I guess I'm ok but I am worried of mold.
The temperature is stable below 80°F.

 

[deluxestogie]

I would like to offer more specific advice regarding mold on tobacco being color-cured within a grow tent with living plants, but those conditions are simply beyond my experience.

Bob

 

[loui loui]

I would like to offer more specific advice regarding mold on tobacco being color-cured within a grow tent with living plants, but those conditions are simply beyond my experience.

Bob

I understand Bob.
I am looking for a guide on temperature and humidity. I got control of my setup but I got a small issue, I can't set a fixed humidity on my humidifier, it only has three settings, on medium setting I get max 75% humidity, on low setting I get around 65% humidity.
What setting do you suggest I use?

I can solve the issue by buying a xiaomi humidifier with a hygrostat, on it I can set the humidity to 67.5% humidity for example and the humidifier will control the mist output.
It is tempting but it is kind of useless if I don't know what humidity is the best, so what is the best?

At the moment I understand that 80% humidity is max but it is from a website about mold.
My main concern is mold, I like dark tobacco.

 

[Knucklehead]

I understand Bob.
I am looking for a guide on temperature and humidity. I got control of my setup but I got a small issue, I can't set a fixed humidity on my humidifier, it only has three settings, on medium setting I get max 75% humidity, on low setting I get around 65% humidity.
What setting do you suggest I use?

I can solve the issue by buying a xiaomi humidifier with a hygrostat, on it I can set the humidity to 67.5% humidity for example and the humidifier will control the mist output.
It is tempting but it is kind of useless if I don't know what humidity is the best, so what is the best?

At the moment I understand that 80% humidity is max but it is from a website about mold.
My main concern is mold, I like dark tobacco.

One of our members used his curing box for air curing, kilning, and flue curing. Some of his experiments may apply to your tent. Kilning in your tent will be expensive and cost prohibitive due to it's lack of insulation, however it should be ideal for air curing.
One main problem with humidity control while curing within your tent is that green and yellow leaf release about 80% of it's original weight through moisture loss. My guess is that you will need to vent off that excess moisture to maintain proper humidity levels or they will continue to climb and you will be fighting against rot and/or mold. You will need to experiment a little to determine if you need a vent only or a powered exhaust with fan. Air circulation is also a handy tool when battling high humidity.

DGBAMA Redneck Curing Chamber Build

To preface, my intent this year as a first time grower was simply to have smokable at minimal cost. Grow, hang, dry, smoke..............Weather in the S.E. has been something of a "B#$%^" this year. Our August weather should be great for air curing......mid-upper 90s w/ good...

fairtradetobacco.com

 

[loui loui]

Thanks I will read the thread!

Yes I need an extraction fan and I got it, no problem. Venting out excess moisture (and replenish CO2) is the main function of an extraction fan. When the tent is filled with big plants excess moisture can be an issue, the issue is then solved by the extraction fan.
A grow tent is very suitable for air curing, no doubt about it, my issue is related to that I have a fixed speed $20 extraction fan.
There are variable speed fans on the market and even fans with integrated thermostat and hygrostat, one of those may be more suitable to air curing but for growing I am ok.
Tent curing came as an afterthought so my tent setup may not be best for the task but I will fix it.

I have in fact a rather hi-tech setup no matter what so first priority is to fix it with the tools I have.

The extraction fan is connected to a hygrostat and the light is connected to a thermostat.
I can set max temperature and minumum humidity.
The relative humidity is a result of temperature and water content in the air. Warm air can hold more water than cold air, hence I can lower the relative humidity by dimming up the light, by creating more heat as a by product.

The good news is that one do not have a lot of big plants in the tent when one cure cause the big plants are recently harvested.
The release of water by plants is therefore negligable when curing so the tent is mainly a curing tent by now, save for one big plants for seeds that ma not be there for next grow cause by then I can move it to the balcony.

The main water source in the tent while curing is therefore my humidifier and it has three settings.
Also this problem is easily cured by purchasing a humidifier with a hygrostat, I am looking namely at a xiaomi humidifier that can be connected wirelessly to a xiaomi combinated thermometer/hygrometer, but this one is sold out at my store, it will return in two weeks.

No matter what, I am dedicated and will solve the issues, it is just a challenge I gladly accept on my way. Thanks again for helping me out my friend!

 

[deluxestogie]

In commercially grown tobacco, the ideal arrangement is for a single barn to contain all leaf of the same maturity. For example, fill the barn with all the burley stalk-cut tobacco from the same week of harvest. Most home growers, myself included, must make a shed suffice for curing leaf that is harvested over a span of weeks to months.

What happens if there are also growing plants added to the curing "shed"? I don't know.

Bob

 

[loui loui]

In commercially grown tobacco, the ideal arrangement is for a single barn to contain all leaf of the same maturity. For example, fill the barn with all the burley stalk-cut tobacco from the same week of harvest. Most home growers, myself included, must make a shed suffice for curing leaf that is harvested over a span of weeks to months.

What happens if there are also growing plants added to the curing "shed"? I don't know.

Bob

Ok it is quite simple, the more growing leaves in the tent the more water the leaves release.
The smart thing about a growing tent combined with a curing tent is that when the plants are harvested the tent is empty so the water release by plants is negligeble, at least in the initial stages of curing when new seeds are germinating.
The humidity is instead provided by a humidifier.

It may be so that a humidifier with a hygrostat is the best solution but the problem can also be solved by a ventilation fan connected to a hygrostat. With both the problem would not even be noticed by a novice grower.

 

[loui loui]

The inkbird controllers are currently set to max temperature and min humidity.
Max 29°C (84.2°F)
Min 67.5%RH
What are the optimum curing conditions?


Thanks for all the help friends, I have difficulties to find this information.

 

[deluxestogie]

What are the optimum curing conditions?

I suppose your current settings should work for color-curing. You are pioneering a new approach, so you will need to watch for mold, watch for mold, and watch for mold. Do let us know how it works out.

Bob

 

[loui loui]

I suppose your current settings should work for color-curing. You are pioneering a new approach, so you will need to watch for mold, watch for mold, and watch for mold. Do let us know how it works out.

Bob

Yes I will!
I removed six leaves today, they had spots from before I had ventilation, don't know what it is.
I still have enough leaves for a first test batch.

The beauty of grow tents is that they are scalable and come in all sizes, what works for a small tent should work for a basement, that apply to growing but should apply for curing also.

 

[Knucklehead]

Yes I will!
I removed six leaves today, they had spots from before I had ventilation, don't know what it is.
I still have enough leaves for a first test batch.

The beauty of grow tents is that they are scalable and come in all sizes, what works for a small tent should work for a basement, that apply to growing but should apply for curing also.

Do you have photos of the spots?

 

[loui loui]

Do you have photos of the spots?

 

[Knucklehead]

I wouldn't toss them yet. The spots may be chlorophyl or water spots. Some leaves have funny colorations and spots during the transformation from green yellow brown to dry. Just carry on and complete the cure and snip out those spots later if you think its necessary or they have a moldy smell. My leaves are like the old werewolf movies with Lon Chaney, Jr. There's a man, then a man/wolf, then a wolf/werewolf, then a completely transformed beautiful werewolf. My leaves go through that. Okay. Maybe that was not the greatest analogy but you get the idea. Lol.