Chaveta feedback

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FmGrowit

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I need to apologize for my post #12 up there. It was brought to my attention via PM that I may have stepped on FmGrowits toes a bit by advertising my chavetas for sale on his thread selling his own. If admins deem it necessary ,please delete post #12,thank you .

No worries, You can list your chavetas in the "Products" forum...that's what it's for. I'm not selling chavetas here, I'm just trying to make them better.
 

webmost

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Truthfully, it doesn't need to be sharp. Any kind of edge is enough for leaf.
 

Matty

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There are many, many kinds of carbon steel. Again, there is low carbon and high carbon. It's been awhile but I seem to remember a few basic grades like 1045 and 1032. 1045 is high carbon it is near the bottom end of the scale for carbon content but can still be hardened to over rockwell 60, which would probably break like glass if not tempered after hardening. Webmost makes a good point though, I've always heard chavetas are supposed to be on the dull side so they don't get stuck in the cutting board while cutting.
 

rainmax

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Truthfully, it doesn't need to be sharp. Any kind of edge is enough for leaf.

Thats true. Also wooden board is important. If it is hard wood from one side and chaveta from recycled hand saw blade in the other than leaf is soft like pancake.
I love my Dominican chaveta. I don't need another.
 

Smokin Harley

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Yer in Time Out!
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hahahahah, I used to do that with my kids when they wouldn't fess up as to who did the crime. I'd make em both stand nose at the wall. My son (the younger of the two) always broke first. I think my daughter probably told him he had to or she'd beat him up.
 

Smokin Harley

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There are many, many kinds of carbon steel. Again, there is low carbon and high carbon. It's been awhile but I seem to remember a few basic grades like 1045 and 1032. 1045 is high carbon it is near the bottom end of the scale for carbon content but can still be hardened to over rockwell 60, which would probably break like glass if not tempered after hardening. Webmost makes a good point though, I've always heard chavetas are supposed to be on the dull side so they don't get stuck in the cutting board while cutting.
I disagree. a sharp knife is a safe knife and also is necessary to cut the fine crisp edge of the wrapper leaf. Otherwise I would think the leaf in high case would simply rip jaggedly.
 

Smokin Harley

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So...carbon steel over spring steel? All my cutlery are old high carbon blades. Couple of swipes over a steel and the edge comes right back. Is there a grade of carbon steel that is better than others. Sharpening a chaveta isn't nearly as easy as sharpening a chef's knife.

I used to use an old carbon steel pizza cutter for my wrapper. Works like a charm, but I'm not too good at sharpening round things.
go to the hardware store and get one of those pocket sharpeners , the plastic ones with two sets of crock sticks fixed to position, run your chaveta through that a few passes , coarse then fine of course. if its just a touch up about 20 swipes per side should do the trick. hit up a welding shop for the tungsten rods( used for TIG welding) make a 45* v out of those in a 1x2 and pass the sharp edge through that , sure dresses the edge nice . THAT my friend will make a razor edged chaveta .
 

ArizonaDave

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It's getting close to needing another run on the chavetas. The reason these current batches were made from spring steel was to match what was being used in the DR by professional rollers...recycled old hand saw blades.

Has anyone had any issues with this material? I'm considering making the next batch out of stainless steel, but I really don't like stainless because it's hard to keep a good edge and if the edge rolls, the only way to sharpen it is to grind the rolled edge off first.

Stainless is prettier than spring steel, but is that enough reason to make stainless chavetas?

Thoughts

Spring steel is much better than Stainless for holding an edge, but stainless doesn't rust. Now Stainless 440, AUS 6 or 8 are better grades of stainless, and do hold an edge longer, although 420-J2 being a little softer, does not chip the blade like 440, and would probably be the best for cutting Cigar leaf.

I'd stick with the spring steel, unless there's a high demand for stainless?

(I used to sell knives to metallurgists, engineers, and general public )
 

jojjas

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My 50 cents of thoughts is , use carbon steel , stainless steel is softer as stated above and much more tricky and expensive to accomplish hardening treatment
I work at a medical manufactoring company thats producing implants and surgical instruments in both stainless and titanium qualities , including some different and odd shaped cutting tools

To get a cuting edge hard and durable for good use in stainless steel there only a few qualities available and they all have to be heat-treated in vacuum to get a durable egde , and the egde still is weaker than egde from carbon steel
And carbon steel qualites comes much greater varieties both in dimensions and qualities suitable for knife purposses
But that is only my thoughts , for what it´s worth
Mikael
 
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