Testing cover crops

billy

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Want to do a review of sorts of my first year using fall cover crops in the garden.
This will be a spaced out thread that covers all the way to planting in its leftover mulch next year.
Will be covering things like ease of doing, weed suppression, ease of planting into its mulch residue next spring, and weed supression of that mulch. Ect.

My garden is a design where about 50% is woodchip walkways and beds are spaced around it where i mixed in sand an mushroom compost for a good soil composition.
goal much like many others is to have a healthy soil minimal weeds and no need to till
Most of the garden beds i cover cropped with diakon radish like so, at about 6-8 weeks of growth now
11.jpg 33.jpg

seed cost is very cheap at garden scale, seed were sprinkled to 3-4" spacing and chopped in with a rake. so was easy to do
the radishes provide a very fast dense canopy as radishes are one of the fastest plants. only one type of weed is competing at all, the one in the right pic with small white/yellow flower, a few per bed reach the canopy, but its easy to pull out those few than have bare soil in which weeds would be every where.
but they form a fat parsnip looking root and are supposed to start winterkilling around 20f. then the canopy should fall to make a mulch layer and the tuber will release nutrients back out for spring plants and soil life.
as a bonus they are food incase your hungry.

2 small patches i did in winter wheat and rye.
22.jpg
grasses are supposed to be good at conditioning soil with many fine roots. but they often require you to kill them if the type dont winterkill at your temps. like mine so well see how that goes once spring arrives. grasses were slightly less good at weeds and had to pull out a bit more

another patch was done in field peas. but got eaten regardless of having a good fence so they seem not viable for me. also things dig up the seeds.

my tobacco plot had a mixture of all 4 but being un-fenced deer eliminated everything that wasnt a grass, and they still eat the grass tops. but still did a decent job of weeds vs bare soil

So, so far im very happy with diakon radish in fences. and it seems like unfenced ill probably do oats next season that will winter kill for me on my tobacco plot if i cant crimp kill the wheat and rye easily

next update when something winterkills
 

Hayden

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I used some mustard as a cover crop. Grows very well and quickly and is killed by the colder temperatures. The only downside was that i think i sowed it a little bit too late on my tobacco fields. On the tomato fields i did it earlier and its quiet tall and thick on it. Maybe it would have been better to use winter rye on the tobacco fields and scythe it in the spring.
 

deluxestogie

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Cover Crop Lb./A *
Mustard 30-120
Radish 50-200
Rapeseed 40-160
Berseem Clover 75-220
Cowpea 100-150
Crimson Clover 70-130
Field Pea 90-150
Hairy Vetch 90-200
Red Clover 70-150
Sweetclover 90-170
White Clover 80-200
* Total Nitrogen from the entire plant
 

billy

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temps.png

grass cover crops can germinate at low temps and are low cost. could broadcast some without much to lose provided you have a plan for terminating it

also since your not from America the chart says 3-6 Celsius
 

ChinaVoodoo

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I so wanted to do a cover crop but we were doing lots of terrain modification until now. Is there any point planting something this late in a cold climate? This article has me thinking vetch might be worth a shot. https://rodaleinstitute.org/science/articles/its-almost-never-too-late-to-plant-hairy-vetch/
I don't know if I would try it. In your part of the world, winter can hit pretty soon, no? If the seeds did not germinate, you might end up having a vetch problem come spring when they do.
 

billy

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wanted to update with some good info i learned while researching. source mainly coming from people at green cover seed and their researchers. they say root depth is mainly controlled by oxygen levels in the soil. and this is mainly lowered by microbes using the oxygen up as you go down. activity of these microbes lowers greatly once soil temps are under 50f. this makes the off season the most important time where you can improve usable soil depth.

say for example once warm weather crops are out and soil temps lower something like annual ryegrass could be put in. and can put roots down several feet now that the oxygen levels are higher in the subsoil. then all these deep channels created serve as little roads where soil life, worms and future roots can use and allows oxygen to enter. multiply that over a few years and the channels will widen and multiply until they overlap and at that point the subsoil is turned into topsoil.

also for supporting optimal soil life its said cover crops should contain 2 of each of the main family's ex. 2 grasses, 2 legumes, 2 brassicas, 2 broadleafs. and have green growth as close to all year as possible. these can be innoculated with nitrogen fixing bacteria and mycorrhiza to get a boost on things. so with greater topsoil depth more nutrients are available to roots and most nitrogen needs can be gotten from the bacteria.

so im gonna start treating my off season as more important than summer, and grow an inoculated mixture, some of which will overwinter and grow in spring. then ill tip the growth over and cover with black plastic to kill it into a mulch layer. my main concern comes from the mulch layer. which is helpful for preventing weeds when transplanting into. but when its time to re spread cover seeds i cant really do that into mulch. bigger scales can with a seed drill but i may have to remove remaining mulch in fall to compost separately then add it back later.
 

Hayden

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My mustard cover crop field at my failed tomato field also developed very good and surpressed weeds. I did the same at my tobacco fields but it was later in the season so they did not grow that high and the effect was lower. If i did it again i would proparbly mix more winter rye in to have something which can survive colder temperatures and surpresses weeds better later in the season.
Its an quiet interesting topic but i also had the same question. How you can plant cover crops when you have a good amount of mulch and you are only a hobby gardener without seed trills etc.
 

billy

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ya i dont know why i never hear this talked about. its only a problem at medium scale. small scale like a raised bed, manual labor solutions can get around it. if i had acres it could be worth investing in a machine attachment. but medium like 1,000's sq/ft not sure how to get cover seeds in the ground through previous years mulch when trying to no-till.

maybe for those areas ill just pick small seed things and hope they fall / get washed down through the mulch. for small seed mix, could be annual rye, millet, clover, alfalfa, rapeseed. that gives 3 plant types, some overwinter, and all are on the small end.
 

billy

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id think the surface is more resilient as it survives the elements and critters and so forth, so not being disturbed is less an option for it. below is meant to be more stable so fungal networks can talk with chemicals on the plant roots or however biology works "insert fancy science words"

but this year ill be ordering about 15 species of cover crops for testing. and ill be managing 3 gardens and a food plot so i can run a bunch of trials and mixes and maybe we can learn something or atleast get pretty pictures.
 

billy

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as promised spring report on the diakon radish cover crop testing. zone 5 for reference
fall ->11.jpg spring up close view ->P_20220316_151040.jpg
it seems like its niche well filled is a situation where you want almost no work, good fall weed prevention, nutrient holding till spring, and in spring you want an easy workable seedbed. all thats left is very crumbly to the touch so even direct seeding wouldn't really be any more work than bare soil bed. so thats easy to recommend, just sprinkle some out in fall and get some benefits with no extra spring work as long as your winter is sub 20f so they die properly.

for areas i want to put transplant in during summer i want more mulch left. also its better for soil if you have more variety plus some overwintering with spring growth. so for that i got 10lbs of 37 way mix plus a packet of inoculant with mycorrhizal and nitrogen fixing bacteria ect.
P_20220210_105633.jpg
plan for that is whatever is still standing or spring growth ill knock over and black plastic for a few weeks before transplanting. so thats more work but best for the soil option. so i can update on that in, erm.. a while

but definitely recommend doing something with your soil in fall, leaving it empty is one of the fastest ways to lose soil structure, beneficial microbes, nutrients, and get weeds because nature will cover crop for you if you dont and those kinds are less fun lol.
 
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