Tobaccofieldsforever 2022 Grow Log

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

That looks like clean soil but is there any chance there is a stick or piece of bark under those seedlings? The cell seems to contain less soil than the others so if there is a chunk with an air gap underneath the plants, then the roots may not have a place to go. That cell may also dry out faster.

They were doing quite well until just a moment ago…literally. That makes me think it was heat related…I will check but I got very good soil mix and was careful to take any pieces out after my incident earlier this season (all soil is NOT created equal!!)

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

That looks like clean soil but is there any chance there is a stick or piece of bark under those seedlings? The cell seems to contain less soil than the others so if there is a chunk with an air gap under the chunk, then the roots may not have a place to go. That cell may also dry out faster.

I started this season with a soil mix I wouldn’t wish on an enemy and have been trying to recover ever since. I should’ve just started over with new seed but I painstakingly transplanted everything I could into better soil and the plants started to recover nicely. I left some in the old soil under the same conditions I have the other newly transferred Plants in and they just will not grow!! No matter what I do…let them dry out, water them, fertilize them, sunlight, heat, shoplight. I’ve thrown all my tobacco knowledge at them (though it is quite limited) and have come to the conclusion that there is just something in the soil mix holding them back. The bag claims there is no urea so it is beyond me. On the bright side, the transfers are doing well!!

 

[deluxestogie]

One failing cell out of all of them is not bad at all. Some of my seedlings just die when they are tiny. My suggestion is to not try too hard to do too much. Little seedlings just sit there and mock me for three or four weeks, then explode in growth. My preference is to keep my holey 1020 tray inside a no-holes 1020 tray that can serve as a moisture reservoir. But I still get a few seedling deaths in each tray each season—but only during the first few weeks. If I see an emerging trend of seedling deaths, then I need to figure out what to change. Otherwise I don't worry much over what the cause might be, and I definitely don't start adding fertilizer or altering an environment in which all the other seedlings appear healthy. I don't have experience with artificial lighting.

I would be inclined to just pluck out those wilty ones, maybe refresh or replace the soil in that one cell, then move a nice seedling into it. You should end up with one seedling per cell anyway.

Bob

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

One failing cell out of all of them is not bad at all. Some of my seedlings just die when they are tiny. My suggestion is to not try too hard to do too much. Little seedlings just sit there and mock me for three or four weeks, then explode in growth. My preference is to keep my holey 1020 tray inside a no-holes 1020 tray that can serve as a moisture reservoir. But I still get a few seedling deaths in each tray each season—but only during the first few weeks. If I see an emerging trend of seedling deaths, then I need to figure out what to change. Otherwise I don't worry much over what the cause might be, and I definitely don't start adding fertilizer or altering an environment in which all the other seedlings appear healthy. I don't have experience with artificial lighting.

I would be inclined to just pluck out those wilty ones, maybe refresh or replace the soil in that one cell, then move a nice seedling into it. You should end up with one seedling per cell anyway.

Bob

Yes, I have been holding back on thinning down to one for this exact reason. Sudden tobacco death. But of course instead of one or two dying in different cells, all three in one cell die rendering that cell useless currently. Why would I expect anything else really?…thanks for your help!

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

I don't have experience with artificial lighting.

Neither did I until this year. I started to panic a little because it seemed like it had been over cast for months and put this light up. Do you only rely on putting your plants in a window? If you have a very sunny day, do you take them out of the window occasionally or can they handle a full day of window sun?

 

[deluxestogie]

I installed wire closet shelving along the lower edge of the windows on my enclosed back porch. One shelf looks South-ish; the other, West-ish. The door to that porch remains open to my kitchen during the winter, so the temp is close to indoor temp. If it's been a fairly sunny spring, then I often don't harden them in direct sun any further. This is not much of an issue if the leaves are well clipped. After a depressingly overcast spring, then I'll harden them for about 5 to 7 days on my front porch (still only half-day sun).

When the seedlings are in their first 1-2 weeks in the 1020 trays, I initially cover them with a clear dome and a single layer of Agribon AG-15 for shade. Once they are established, and the domes come off, I may continue the Agribon sheet for a few more days (suspended by my Popsicle sticks). Then I hold a ceremony (germination cups looking on with tears of pride), and graduate the growing seedlings to Bob's harsh reality: grow in the open, or be replaced.

Bob

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

I installed wire closet shelving along the lower edge of the windows on my enclosed back porch. One shelf looks South-ish; the other, West-ish. The door to that porch remains open to my kitchen during the winter, so the temp is close to indoor temp. If it's been a fairly sunny spring, then I often don't harden them in direct sun any further. This is not much of an issue if the leaves are well clipped. After a depressingly overcast spring, then I'll harden them for about 5 to 7 days on my front porch (still only half-day sun).

When the seedlings are in their first 1-2 weeks in the 1020 trays, I initially cover them with a clear dome and a single layer of Agribon AG-15 for shade. Once they are established, and the domes come off, I may continue the Agribon sheet for a few more days (suspended by my Popsicle sticks). Then I hold a ceremony (germination cups looking on with tears of pride), and graduate the growing seedlings to Bob's harsh reality: grow in the open, or be replaced.

Bob

Nice! Yea, today was the first full day of sun (or close to it) since I started my seeds. I am pretty sure they either got too hot under the dome or too much direct sun. All the windows in my house have a slight covering/tint to the glass that filters out some of the UV though so I thought they would be ok…LIVE AND LEARN.

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

I have a large roll of this Tietex fabric. It was given to me by a friend who owned a large freezedry taxidermy shop. All I think I know about it is it is nonwoven fabric that is maybe polyester…is anyone familiar with it and could I possibly use it to make bud bags or to shield seedlings from intense sunlight early in their growth? This looks like the roll I have https://polytek.com/products/tietex-fabric and this is a picture.

 

[deluxestogie]

The Tietex fabric looks as though:

• it weighs a lot
• it would provide over 50% shade
• is not particularly wind permeable

Though handy, free and convenient, I would look for something thinner for both your suggested uses.

Bob

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

The Tietex fabric looks as though:

• it weighs a lot
• it would provide over 50% shade
• is not particularly wind permeable

Though handy, free and convenient, I would look for something thinner for both your suggested uses.

Bob

I was worried it may be a little too thick. Where do you get your agribon? Seems rather expensive after a quick search for ag15 sources. Is ag19 too thin?

 

[ChinaVoodoo]

I use brew bags. If you're making lots or already have the agribon, by all means, go that route, but if you're only doing a couple, maybe consider a brew bag or paint strainer bag.

Beer - Equipment - Bags & Strainers - Page 1 - Home Brew Ohio

www.homebrewohio.com

 

[deluxestogie]

Agribon+ AG-15 – 118" x 50' - Insect Barrier | Johnny's Selected Seeds

Lightweight grade for insect control. Also for heat-sensitive crops—only a minimal heat increase during the day. We use it here on Johnny's farm for ...

www.johnnyseeds.com

AG-15 provides ~10% shade, and is perfect for sewing bud bags.

Bob

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

I use brew bags. If you're making lots or already have the agribon, by all means, go that route, but if you're only doing a couple, maybe consider a brew bag or paint strainer bag.

Beer - Equipment - Bags & Strainers - Page 1 - Home Brew Ohio

www.homebrewohio.com

I used paint strainer bags last season and actually liked them quite a bit. They seemed a bit on the pricy side but I guess that’s ok since they can be washed and last multiple seasons. I will have to get more for this season.

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

Update plant pictures:

They are doing much better than before since I switched everything out of that terrible soil. I was wondering if tobacco seedlings or plants in general need a period of darkness or does constant light mean constant photosynthesis? I am asking because I use artificial light at night and sometimes during the day if it is overcast badly and in the last couple weeks they have been exposed to some form of light nearly around the clock.

 

[deluxestogie]

Lengthening the night period (as in late summer) may trigger budding. If you go from long light periods per 24 hours to natural daylight in May, the night period will suddenly [lengthen].

That said, I suspect that only some tobacco varieties respond in that way. The seedlings on my back porch get wacked with indirect kitchen light until I go to bed each night. Early budding has seldom been an issue. I have definitely noticed that certain tobacco varieties that are exposed in the garden to my neighbor's insecurity light (high on a power pole) seem to take forever to bud.

Bob

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

Lengthening the night period (as in late summer) may trigger budding. If you go from long light periods per 24 hours to natural daylight in May, the night period will suddenly shorten.

That said, I suspect that only some tobacco varieties respond in that way. The seedlings on my back porch get wacked with indirect kitchen light until I go to bed each night. Early budding has seldom been an issue. I have definitely noticed that certain tobacco varieties that are exposed in the garden to my neighbor's insecurity light (high on a power pole) seem to take forever to bud.

Bob

I don’t think I understand what you are saying. Wouldn’t introducing them to natural light around may (putting them outside/planting them) mean the night period suddenly lengthened (as there was little to no night period while under artificial light). I mean, I think I understand what you are saying but the wording is confusing me. I assume you meant to write lengthen rather than suddenly shorten. Or light instead of night…haha! Or maybe something went completely over my head here (certainly likely).

 

[deluxestogie]

I assume you meant to write lengthen rather than suddenly shorten

Sorry. The long and the short of it is that you are correct. Longer night period means shorter day period. I confuse myself. Most non-academic discussions refer to "short-day" and "long-day" varieties of plants, etc. The reality is that the plants don't seem to respond to experimental changes the day period with any metabolic alteration. BUT...here's the crux of it...experimental changes to the dark period, or night period bring about hormonal changes in the plants. That's how trees and shrubs and grasses, etc. know autumn is coming.

I will edit my previous post for the benefit of other readers.

If the plants go from 24 hour artificial light to natural light, the night period suddenly grows longer. How much impact will it have on tobacco prematurely budding? I don't really know for sure.

Bob

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

Lengthening the night period (as in late summer) may trigger budding. If you go from long light periods per 24 hours to natural daylight in May, the night period will suddenly shorten.

That said, I suspect that only some tobacco varieties respond in that way. The seedlings on my back porch get wacked with indirect kitchen light until I go to bed each night. Early budding has seldom been an issue. I have definitely noticed that certain tobacco varieties that are exposed in the garden to my neighbor's insecurity light (high on a power pole) seem to take forever to bud.

Bob

Thank you for the reply. I will just delete my previous response as well now(it is too late to delete it but you @deluxestogie are welcome to). I was worried about something like that being an issue. This is referred to as photo period sensitivity correct (Or something like that)? Anyway, I am growing Virginia gold, MD609, krumovgrad, prilep (the ones northwood carries) harrow velvet and yellow twist bud. If anyone knows whether or not any of these varieties are photo period sensitive please let me know. Also, I wanted to make sure there was not some kind of important process that happened during dark periods I may be depriving the plant of by keeping it under constant light. From my own personal experience with tobacco, budding has depended almost entirely on age of plant. Even when grown indoors during winter and relying only on natural light. I have even harvested the entire plant down to the root ball after it had flowered and the leaves had matured. I then let a “sucker” or shoot (from the roots or stem stump) grow out to maturity. It would flower very quickly but still grow to a decent size. This leads me to believe that, at least with the varieties I tried this on, flowering is a result of plant maturity/age. Anyway, thanks for the help!

 

[Tobaccofieldsforever]

insecurity light

Haha

 

[santisimo]

I started my tobacco seed at the end of February. I often photograph the bigger ones. By contrast, here are my Corojo 99 seedlings.

Some varieties seem to leap from the soil, while others languish for weeks, then explode. Yours seem fine. (The soil mix seems horrid!)

Bob

Hello... be patient! As Bob says, depending on varieties can very slow on growing. I experienced this on Connecticut shade seeds last year while Shirey and Prilep goes faster.