2023 Grow Blog, first try: @RoperLegacyWoods

[RoperLegacyWoods]

This is my first seedling/seeding? Not sure the right terminology but it’s the first time I’ve tried germinating from seed. I used seed starting mix from burpee that uses coconut coir. As soon as the vermiculite gets here, I’m going to make a batch of Bob’s recipe seed mix and re-plant.
Per his recommendation, I’m doing 3 varieties with 2 kinds each: 401 cherry red, African red (virginias). Golden burley and Harrow velvet (burley). For orientals it’s Bursa and Prilep 66/9-7. The beds I’m planting into are first time beds from lawn grass. I plan to transplant about 6 plants of each variety.

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Definitely failed the “attach pictures test”
Attempt#2….

 

[deluxestogie]

Nice tobacco start. Nice photo. [The forum software has all sorts of hinky little quirks that each of us has to slowly sift through.]

Bob

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

My last frost date is supposed to be 11 of April. Yup, definitely running late. But I’m learning a ton and having fun. I found these guys dried up and fallen over. It’s the only one it happened to. I’m guessing it was due to the plastic being blown off? I went ahead and replanted…..

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Finally got the transplants done. I’ve never done this before, so I over planted to compensate for mistakes. Next year I want to get some better 1020 trays from the greenhouse website that Bob uses. And maybe use those plastic canning jars for the sprouting.

 

[deluxestogie]

maybe use those plastic canning jars for the sprouting

I like the plastic jars, because they don't shatter, if dropped. A wide-mouth pint Mason jar works as well. And the particular, plastic freezer jars that I use are no longer available.

Bob

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Need some advice please. It looks to me like this white fuzzy stuff is mold of some kind. Am I right? If not what is it?

 

[Alpine]

I can’t see clearly from the pics, but those popsicle sticks look wet… very wet. If they are (maybe it’s just the pics) then high moisture and poor air circulation may cause mold growth. To be 100% certain, take some of the fuzzy stuff away and put a few drops of hydrogen peroxide on it. If foam develops, then it’s mold. Do you water your seedlings from the bottom? Are the trays covered with a dome of some sort?

pier

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

I can’t see clearly from the pics, but those popsicle sticks look wet… very wet. If they are (maybe it’s just the pics) then high moisture and poor air circulation may cause mold growth. To be 100% certain, take some of the fuzzy stuff away and put a few drops of hydrogen peroxide on it. If foam develops, then it’s mold. Do you water your seedlings from the bottom? Are the trays covered with a dome of some sort?

pier

I put a quart and a half in the bottom when I transplanted a few days ago. Also sprayed a bit into each cell with a spray bottle.
I kept a dome over it 24/7. Should I take it off?
I’ll try the peroxide test today.
How often should I be watering?

 

[Alpine]

Popsicle sticks are a good indicator of the water content of the soil (the wood they are made of “sucks” water from the soil, and the wet line climbs up and down depending on how much water is present).
Take the stick out of the soil, if it feels moist or is visibly moist, then your seedlings don’t need water. Do not mist from the top, only water from the bottom: you want to encourage the roots to go deeper and not stay on the surface. Take the dome away gradually: one hour or less the first two or three days, then a little more. This will strengthen the seedlings and take care of the mold on the surface.

pier

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Not sure what I did wrong, but I do suspect I didn’t put enough water into the soil mix before planting. Or, I left the plastic wrap on after the sprouts emerged. Thoughts?

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Popsicle sticks are a good indicator of the water content of the soil (the wood they are made of “sucks” water from the soil, and the wet line climbs up and down depending on how much water is present).
Take the stick out of the soil, if it feels moist or is visibly moist, then your seedlings don’t need water. Do not mist from the top, only water from the bottom: you want to encourage the roots to go deeper and not stay on the surface. Take the dome away gradually: one hour or less the first two or three days, then a little more. This will strengthen the seedlings and take care of the mold on the surface.

pier

How much water do I put in the bottom of the tray? And on what kind of schedule? I have some cells that are visibly drier than others.

 

[deluxestogie]

For those extra-dry cells, try dribbling a bit of water along the edges, to encourage the soil mix to begin wicking from the bottom.

Bob

EDIT: The day before I intend to utilize a new tray of soil-mix inserts, I put about 1½ quarts of water into the bottom of the tray, and cover the inserts with a dome. By the next day, the soil in each cell is usually hydrated, and ready to receive a tiny seedling.

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Good evening friends! It’s been a busy couple of months and I haven’t posted since right before transplanting.
Went into the beds this morning and found a few problems I thought I’d seek some help with after reading through the forums again. I’m assuming this is some kind of bug?

 

[deluxestogie]

There are always little bugs. The only thing that eats away a large swath of a leaf, and with a relatively smooth border, is a hornworm. Inspect the underside of the leaves, and look for BB-size black pellets of hornworm poop beneath the eaten areas.

Rips and tears are from physical damage by you or animals or bird beaks (while picking off little bugs).

Bob

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

There are always little bugs. The only thing that eats away a large swath of a leaf, and with a relatively smooth border, is a hornworm. Inspect the underside of the leaves, and look for BB-size black pellets of hornworm poop beneath the eaten areas.

Rips and tears are from physical damage by you or animals or bird beaks (while picking off little bugs).

Bob

Got black pellets, I’ll keep looking for worms. Is there a spray I should use?
Should I be worried about the small brown/dead spots in the third picture?

 

[deluxestogie]

If you will be harvesting soon, then no spray needed. Just find the hornworms, and squish them. Also look for solitary hornworm eggs, which can be on either upper or lower surfaces.

If you don't find them, then after you've hung the leaf or whole plants to color-cure, regularly check the floor beneath for more hornworm poop.

If it will be several weeks before you harvest, then you might go by a garden shop, and find some BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray to apply weekly.

Should I be worried about the small brown/dead spots in the third picture?

No worry. Just use the leaf.

Bob

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

If you will be harvesting soon, then no spray needed. Just find the hornworms, and squish them. Also look for solitary hornworm eggs, which can be on either upper or lower surfaces.

If you don't find them, then after you've hung the leaf or whole plants to color-cure, regularly check the floor beneath for more hornworm poop.

If it will be several weeks before you harvest, then you might go by a garden shop, and find some BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray to apply weekly.


No worry. Just use the leaf.

Bob

Thank you sir, I’m still trying to decide whether to stalk cure or prime, so likely several weeks before harvest. BigBonner set me up nicely with these plants.

 

[RoperLegacyWoods]

Second Priming done last week. Now I’m noticing these green spots scattered throughout some of the leaves. Is this normal?

 

[Alpine]

I would be inclined to say a solid “no”… were the leaves ripe (or mature at least) when you started curing? Did you prime the leaves or are you stalk curing? Are they curing in a shady but not dark place? How high is the relative humidity? What are the temperatures? Give us more infos, so we can be of some help… in the first picture, the leaves on the background seem to cure properly though.

pier