Hello from Phoenix

[Old Putt Cigars]

Thanks for the input Deluxestogie. I think I have a curing or coloring room because I have a home walk-in humidor. I keep the AC vent closed so the Temp. stays just under 80 f. & Humidity stays between 64-69%. I just did the first priming on 6-8 and it looks OK I think but I wouldn’t know for sure. Do you think this environment will work?

I love the photos, especially those with tobacco growing in front of the Saguaros, and behind the pool. No mistaking what state you're in.

Bucket growing is always a challenge. Perhaps a mix of 1/3 peat, and 2/3 Miracle-Gro potting soil would do well. Drill holes in the bottom of the bucket. Fill it entirely with the soil mix. Then you can water as needed, without fear of overwatering. (Adding the traditional gravel to the bottom will raise the perched water table, and decrease the volume of soil available for root growth.) While tobacco roots tend not to run deep, in a bucket-grown plant, the finer roots will fill every available nook, all the way down to the perched water table.

Growing tobacco in a Sonoran environment can be trying. But I think setting up curing arrangements may be more so, due to the low humidity.

Bob

 

[deluxestogie]

Good heavens! That's a stash! (The tobacconist here in Blacksburg stocks fewer boxes, and is a bit thin on the Havana inventory.)

The conditions should work for color-curing.

Bob

 

[MarcL]

Do you think this environment will work?

W0W ! !

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

Thanks a lot for the humidor compliment,

That's just a small corner of the humidor, it's 14' X 16' X 14' tall. According to my inventory spreadsheet, I have something over a thousand boxes still in cellophane (I can’t smoke that many). I own a part of a tobacco distribution firm & when there are overages or shipping mistakes I bring'em home for the collection when I can.
Anyway, I know coloring/curing & fermenting are different animals. Any good info. on fermenting and the homemade devices to do that you could steer me to?

Good heavens! That's a stash! (The tobacconist here in Blacksburg stocks fewer boxes, and is a bit thin on the Havana inventory.)

The conditions should work for color-curing.

Bob

 

[deluxestogie]

The basics of a kiln, to do the "fermenting," are

• a container
• a heat source
• a way to maintain humidity
• a thermostat

For a container, I've used a large wooden toolbox, as well as a galvanized trash can. Many members have used a dead, upright freezer for a spacious container.

For my heat sources and humidity, I have used a Crockpot. Temp can be controlled with a water heater thermostat (the cheapest method, using either a "lower" thermostat designed for a 2 element water heater, or a "single" element thermostat) or using an electronic temp controller.

Leaf goes in after color-curing, and stays for about 4 weeks at ~125ºF and 65-75% RH. Some folks have placed moist leaf into jars or Ziplock bags, instead of adding water to the Crockpot. (With my 2 kilns, I need to add 1-1/2 to 2 cups of water to the Crockpot every 3 or 4 days. This all depends on the container and air exchange rates.)

This post http://fairtradetobacco.com/threads/3868-Key-threads-in-the-FTT-forum contains a listing of key forum threads, by topic. Look for curing.

And, of course, the grower's FAQ may be useful (link at top of every page).

Bob

 

[quo155]

Thanks for the input Deluxestogie. I think I have a curing or coloring room because I have a home walk-in humidor. I keep the AC vent closed so the Temp. stays just under 80 f. & Humidity stays between 64-69%. I just did the first priming on 6-8 and it looks OK I think but I wouldn’t know for sure. Do you think this environment will work?

Well...I can't start out telling you ANYTHING until I mention just how NICE that walk-in is, I mean bedroom...oh wait, what were those dimensions...FAMILY ROOM sized humidor! Props to you brother! I am sure you will enjoy those sticks in any way you can...its nice to see some people so BLESSED! Awesome stuff...

Now, your leaves look awesome too. I'm the farthest one here from being an expert, but I love the current color of them. It will be quiet interesting to see how they change over time in that environment.

Just do me this one thing...SMOKE 'EM IF YA GOT 'EM!

WoW!

 

[Knucklehead]

Lovin' the avatar! JEB Stuart, right?

 

[Mad Oshea]

I didn't think gravel would be necessary because it allows the soil in the pail to drain by separating it from the ground soil. Mine sits on gravel and so accomplishes the same thing I think.

I drill the hole 2" above the base and add pea gravel to that mark. The large burlap wick is so the soil will draw it upwards out of the well. The same idea as a float cell, larger for dry air and temps. Less water to use. I have never had a problem with any plants this way.2" of water will wick up in two to three days using less to the ground, and not going stail.

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

Lovin' the avatar! JEB Stuart, right?

Yep, that's JEB. I'm from South Carolina and was raised to believe that Davis, Lee, Stuart, Longstreet & the boy’s were actually “Saints”. Hell, who am I kidding - I still do!

 

[Brown Thumb]

Jeesh, that is Awesome!!! Now I got to find another walkin freezer to climate control all my Cured Baccy.
You guys are a bad influence on me. I Love It.
I won't say what the wife thinks.
Welcome To FTT and Enjoy.
BT

 

[Knucklehead]

Yep, that's JEB. I'm from South Carolina and was raised to believe that Davis, Lee, Stuart, Longstreet & the boy’s were actually “Saints”. Hell, who am I kidding - I still do!

You're singing to the choir here.

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

I drill the hole 2" above the base and add pea gravel to that mark. The large burlap wick is so the soil will draw it upwards out of the well. The same idea as a float cell, larger for dry air and temps. Less water to use. I have never had a problem with any plants this way.2" of water will wick up in two to three days using less to the ground, and not going stail.

Thanks for the input. These plants take a LOT of water.
The 20 plants in the back are 100 days old. I think that’s very slow growth and I think it’s a watering issue, the reason I think, is as follows:
It’s 105 degrees f. min. here every day & zero humidity. The plant only grows when the roots grow. Roots grow when looking for new moister. Every second day, the leaves droop and on the third day they WILT, ruining the leaves (I’ve lost many testing this). I have to water every second evening to prevent WILT from taking place the following (third) day. The soil at the bottom of the pail is always wet and the roots don’t have to grow in search of water.
Alternately, the season here is very long, into December and even then there’s no danger of frost. There might be one light frost in January every 5[SUP]th[/SUP] year. So, I’m hoping they live long in order to developa good crop.
Does this theory stand-up to scrutiny?
Will the plant grow that long (8-10 months)?

 

[Knucklehead]

If you're not going to save the seed, you should top the plants to induce the roots to put nicotine into the leaves. If you are saving seed, you should bag the seed head before the flowers open to avoid cross pollination. Bees can carry pollen from 2-3 miles away. There's no way to know who else is growing tobacco nearby so the only sure way to avoid crossing is to bag your seed heads.

The flowering plants are nearing the end of their cycle. I'd start priming leaf when they show signs of maturity or ripeness. (depending on whether you are growing cigar or cigarette varieties)

 

[deluxestogie]

I'm assuming that 100 days is the count of days since transplanting to the pots.

My own limited experience with growing a full-size tobacco variety in a large pot (probably 10 gallon) is that its height and its leaf size is about 2/3 that of plants in the ground.

I'm not so sure about the searching/growing theory. The plants are stressed in those climate conditions. If the pots are well drained, then you might consider watering them daily. Maybe try that with a few of them. If they have all been subjected to desiccation every few days for months, then they have probably been encouraged to limit growth, and flower as early as possible.

I am just guessing here. At 105ºF minimum each day, I'm sure, with a smaller leaf surface, they can just barely keep up with water transpiration.

As for how long they will grow, I've kept some in very small pots for over 2 years. When topped, or even cut down to the lowest node, they just put out suckers, one of which I selected, removing the rest. The pots limit the size of the plant. In the ground, most tobacco will send out shallow roots to over two feet from the stalk.

Bob

EDIT: Look at the leaf size of all the native plants nearby. They are either tiny, or are in to form of cactus spines. This is an adaptation to the high temps and low humidity. The tobacco has a challenge.

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

If you're not going to save the seed, you should top the plants to induce the roots to put nicotine into the leaves. If you are saving seed, you should bag the seed head before the flowers open to avoid cross pollination. Bees can carry pollen from 2-3 miles away. There's no way to know who else is growing tobacco nearby so the only sure way to avoid crossing is to bag your seed heads.

The flowering plants are nearing the end of their cycle. I'd start priming leaf when they show signs of maturity or ripeness. (depending on whether you are growing cigar or cigarette varieties)

Yes, I considered the possibility of cross pollination. My new girlfriend is a hummingbird in the mornings. I have topped all that have bloomed (Turkish Only) and am keeping seed from the best. I will keep seed from one each of the other variety’s bests’ as they bloom and will bag before the next one does (have bags made already). I REALLY don’t think anyone else in my neighborhood is growing tobacco. Gardeners/Landscapers don’t offer that service.

Thanks for the priming tip, I’ll do that. I’m only growing cigarette tobacco and will try grinding some nasal snuff. I’m all Full-Up on the cigar front.

 

[Old Putt Cigars]

EDIT: Look at the leaf size of all the native plants nearby. They are either tiny, or are in to form of cactus spines. This is an adaptation to the high temps and low humidity. The tobacco has a challenge.

Thanks for the reality check Man!

What better advice when trying a new plant in a new place than “Look Around” and see whatcha got to work with! Thanks!

You’re right: 100 days outside. The pails are well drained and I’ll try a 24hr. watering cycle on half dozen and see. Everything I read precursory warns “Do Not Overwater Tobacco” so my testing was done to see how little water was mandatory to keep them from wilting. None of these sources however were desert based technique as best I could tell. I think I’ll try “Taking a Look Around” mixed with a little common sense.

 

[Knucklehead]

If a flower happens to open before you can get your bag on it, you can pull off the flower and it's seed pod and then bag the rest of the unopened head.

Good thread on ripe leaf: http://fairtradetobacco.com/threads/174-Ripe-tobacco-leaf

When to prime: http://fairtradetobacco.com/threads/1175-when-to-start-priming

 

[Mad Oshea]

I'm assuming that 100 days is the count of days since transplanting to the pots.

My own limited experience with growing a full-size tobacco variety in a large pot (probably 10 gallon) is that its height and its leaf size is about 2/3 that of plants in the ground.

I'm not so sure about the searching/growing theory. The plants are stressed in those climate conditions. If the pots are well drained, then you might consider watering them daily. Maybe try that with a few of them. If they have all been subjected to desiccation every few days for months, then they have probably been encouraged to limit growth, and flower as early as possible.

I am just guessing here. At 105ºF minimum each day, I'm sure, with a smaller leaf surface, they can just barely keep up with water transpiration.

As for how long they will grow, I've kept some in very small pots for over 2 years. When topped, or even cut down to the lowest node, they just put out suckers, one of which I selected, removing the rest. The pots limit the size of the plant. In the ground, most tobacco will send out shallow roots to over two feet from the stalk.

Bob

EDIT: Look at the leaf size of all the native plants nearby. They are either tiny, or are in to form of cactus spines. This is an adaptation to the high temps and low humidity. The tobacco has a challenge.

There are are no native night shades here. Top the one You have and water two times a day.( nite) and morning. Look at My grow blog as posted on dead-sert bucket grows. grow blog)( My 35 yrs. is dumb to most, but it works. And yes, plant them in the ground . Part shade and full morning sun and full afternoon sun- Then water, and watch them pray. Why think of, if it can grow in the Turkish desert- Why not here? Better smoke to be had. We just pay a water bill. Mad- Bag the ones You want to save, and top the ones You want the leaf for q-leaf. If You like the flowers, don't top at all. Just throw the seed pods away and buy more.

 

[BarG]

Believe it or not the desert grower comes to mind is absent. He probably frequents another site. I cant remember his name. I think its daniel. Daniels not here.

 

[deluxestogie]

Yes. Daniel made valiant attempts at growing tobacco in the Nevada desert, but that was at a remote site, and didn't work out well. His container-grown plants seemed to do just fine.

Bob