kiln

[DrBob]

I also added 2" of insulation, glued it on, Refrigerators are only insulated to r-5 2" of foam increases the value to r-15 and makes all the difference in the world. I have no problems heating the chamber at -10f. Ice does form around the seals at temps below +10 f No problem anymore. I just do not cure in the extreme cold anymore. I am going to take a load of 12# out this afternoon and shut it down till april. I will have 22 pounds shredded up and in the freezer this afternoon and wont need any more until june.

It gives me great pride to see so many people have copied my basic design. I am glad to share.

Dr.Bob

 

[Boboro]

You got that exactly right. Thanks for the Liquid Nails tip. I have some around here someplace. How long does that take to set up and can I use it in the cold? I might be able to get a pretty decent looking job that way. A coat of paint and I'd be all set.-- J

It should say on the tube what the temps. are but 50 deg. is the standered. Be sure its safe for foam.

 

[Boboro]

I also added 2" of insulation, glued it on, Refrigerators are only insulated to r-5 2" of foam increases the value to r-15 and makes all the difference in the world. I have no problems heating the chamber at -10f. Ice does form around the seals at temps below +10 f No problem anymore. I just do not cure in the extreme cold anymore. I am going to take a load of 12# out this afternoon and shut it down till april. I will have 22 pounds shredded up and in the freezer this afternoon and wont need any more until june.

It gives me great pride to see so many people have copied my basic design. I am glad to share.

Dr.Bob

I built mine so after your post and it has worked well .

 

[johnlee1933]

It should say on the tube what the temps. are but 50 deg. is the standered. Be sure its safe for foam.

Thanks WILCO -- J

 

[Knucklehead]

DrBob your kiln idea has been as big a boon to this hobby as the Powermatic shredder and tube injectors. Great idea and this hobby owes you a debt of gratitude. Thank you.
I remember you from "that other place" and I'm glad to see you on FTT. One more thinking man here can't hurt even though we grow them over here like cudzu.

 

[LeftyRighty]

Yeah, DrBob - I started planning mine from when you first posted your results in '09, and I've reviewed all posts since on FTT and that other website. My initial problem was finding a freezer box, it took me 3 years and now I got two. Checking with appliance dealers proved fruitless, they take old ones straight to the shredder. Only way to get one is to ask relatives, friends and neighbors who may be replacing theirs.
My first kiln was a styrofoam box, only because I couldn't find a cheaper alternative.

As far a putting a 'kit' together, I have two initial suggestions:
- It would be much cheaper to buy the pre-wired Ranco controller (although +$15), and do all the wiring and connections with extension cords. The cost of hard electrical wire, outlet boxes, duplex outlets, connector/fasteners really adds up to mucho $$$. Mine may look nice, but it wasn't cheap!
-The size of the freezer box, and whether it's indoor/outdoor installation, will make a big difference in most components, like fans, crockpot, air intake/outlet, insulation, seals, etc. One size won't fit all.
If a 'kit' is to be assembled, it would only need to be:
- Ranco ETC controller, pre-wired
- couple short extension cords
- a few pre-cut pieces of PVC pipe ('cause the shortest length to buy is 4 ft)
- silicone caulk
- simple wiring diagram
- optional pre-assembled high-temp thermostat in sealed outlet box.
Even with all this, drilling the large holes in a freezer box may be a challenge for some.

I think that there has been enough info available, by all those who have posted on their kilns, that any intelligent person could assemble a kiln to suit their need, in an acceptable manner. I'm not sure that a kit would really sell very well. Almost all components are available from local sources, and in most home workshops, except the Ranco unit. It would be nice if someone could get them at a big discount.

(edit) Maybe a better plan would be for someone to assemble a set of assembly instructions or plans, with a source list for components. Would need to include various alternatives and options, like 12volt wiring for computer fans, thermostat vs Ranco temperature control, etc. And applicable whether the box is a freezer, insulated plywood or closet.

 

[Knucklehead]

I'm still up in the air as to whether or not I want to build a kiln although I can get the freezer free. I plan on smoking Don's and Larry's whole leaf for a year and grow enough my first year to last two years. After that I'm always smoking one year or longer aged tobacco. In addition to my cigarette varieties and cigar varieties that will age naturally I'm adding a few plants recommended as good tasting and smoking not long after cure stage -- Yellow Twist Bud, Bursa and Ottoman -- which will at least have me smoking some of my own home grown the first year, and working in with Don and Larrys'. So what do you guys think, do I need a kiln or have I covered the bases without one? What would you call this - delayed gratification?

 

[Boboro]

A kiln will alow you to dry steams when tryin to make hangin space and even at a year tobacco is better with a few weeks in the kiln an its good for bringin tobacco in an out of case in large quantitys.Its just a great tool for workin tobacco. You want regreat havein one around if you got the room for it.

 

[DrBob]

I still prefer calling it a curing chamber. I never liked the name kiln. it also works great to rehydrate tobacco. A great thing to have.

Dr. Bob

 

[Boboro]

Its a must have.

 

[FmGrowit]

DrBob,

I never meant to slight you in recognizing your design. If you want to put a parts package together and list it in the "Products" forum here, you are more than welcome to do so...at no cost.

The process of establishing a standard model has to begin somewhere. Revisions and possibly even new designs are inevitable as time goes on, but I really believe there is a need for parts package.

My guess is the natural progression of this design will be a multipurpose curing chamber. One that can be used as a Flue Curing chamber as well, would be ideal.

 

[johnlee1933]

A kiln will alow you to dry steams when tryin to make hangin space and even at a year tobacco is better with a few weeks in the kiln an its good for bringin tobacco in an out of case in large quantitys.Its just a great tool for workin tobacco. You want regreat havein one around if you got the room for it.

I agree and it's handy to free up space by finishing almost dry stuff to give you more space in your color curing area. When you strip out the rib and bag it for kilning you get good packing density. -- John

 

[DrBob]

DrBob,

I never meant to slight you in recognizing your design. If you want to put a parts package together and list it in the "Products" forum here, you are more than welcome to do so...at no cost.

The process of establishing a standard model has to begin somewhere. Revisions and possibly even new designs are inevitable as time goes on, but I really believe there is a need for parts package.

My guess is the natural progression of this design will be a multipurpose curing chamber. One that can be used as a Flue Curing chamber as well, would be ideal.

Thank you Don.
I really did not feel slighted. I am very proud that so many people have used my basic design and made thier own curing chamber. The basic design was intended to be as low cost as possible. My chamber cost me less than $50.00 to build.
freezer = free
Water heater thermostat = free salvaged
crockpot= $2.00 yard sale
computer fans= salvaged
pvc pipe parts for exhaust = $8.00
12 v. transformer salvaged
Electric wiring $10.00
2" foam insulation = $10.00
glue= $5.00
Probe thermometer = $8.00

I never saw any reason to market a kit, But now I do see a need for a combination flue curing and ferment curing chamber. I have the basic design for one but it would not be as easy due to the higher temperatures ruling out a referigerator or freezer for a chamber.
Plans are a possibility. What would the market bear?

Dr.Bob

 

[LeftyRighty]

curious --- why do you rule out a freezer for a flue-curing chamber? I think the plastic liners and insulation in these appliances can take 150+ degrees, without problems. I have a freezer box that I'll use this year (if I get it done).

I used a clothes iron, and a digital meat thermometer to check temps. At 200+ degrees, the plastic liner begins to soften.
But no problem at 150 degrees. I know my method is quasi-accurate, but gives me a range to work with. I know that the normal range for drying the stems is 165+, but anything above 150 should work, and will just take a day or so longer to complete the flue-curing.

 

[DrBob]

curious --- why do you rule out a freezer for a flue-curing chamber? I think the plastic liners and insulation in these appliances can take 150+ degrees, without problems. I have a freezer box that I'll use this year (if I get it done).

I used a clothes iron, and a digital meat thermometer to check temps. At 200+ degrees, the plastic liner begins to soften.
But no problem at 150 degrees. I know my method is quasi-accurate, but gives me a range to work with. I know that the normal range for drying the stems is 165+, but anything above 150 should work, and will just take a day or so longer to complete the flue-curing.

My biggest fear is the foam insulation breaking down. Flue curing does require temps of 175f in the final stage. There are amatures using this apperatus me included. The possibilities of going over 200f accidentally are a real threat. Some very ugly things could happen. Poisonous fumes from the insulation scare me. There has to be someone who knows more than I do that could help.

 

[leverhead]

Flue-curing will always have some challenges. The temperatures, while not that hot, are hot enough to be a problem for large panels of plastic. Overall size limitations for the home grower with a two pack a day habit, make the loading density go higher and that makes for limited choices in blowers. For me, the blower was the single biggest expense. Without some more work, electric heat does pose a fire risk. My focus this year will be automating the temperature advance, that will take most of the chore out of it. In 2014, I may build a box to suit my needs, about 3' X 4' X 8' high.

Is there anybody here that can make an old PC talk to the real world through an I/O board? I can then focus on a stud-framed box with a metal lining and spray foam insulation. I can do the heat and duck work for the air. We might be able to get it done and all the bugs worked out this year. Any takers?

Steve

 

[johnlee1933]

Flue-curing will always have some challenges. The temperatures, while not that hot, are hot enough to be a problem for large panels of plastic. Overall size limitations for the home grower with a two pack a day habit, make the loading density go higher and that makes for limited choices in blowers. For me, the blower was the single biggest expense. Without some more work, electric heat does pose a fire risk. My focus this year will be automating the temperature advance, that will take most of the chore out of it. In 2014, I may build a box to suit my needs, about 3' X 4' X 8' high.

Is there anybody here that can make an old PC talk to the real world through an I/O board? I can then focus on a stud-framed box with a metal lining and spray foam insulation. I can do the heat and duck work for the air. We might be able to get it done and all the bugs worked out this year. Any takers?

Steve

I can't do the I/O board but I'll bet my G-son can. I haven't done any programming in years but this seems a simple task. Let me ask the kid and see what kind of answer I get. -- J

 

[DrBob]

There is a thermostat that looks like it would do the job. it is available from thermomart it is a PID-rs-r-h It is designed as a kiln controller It costs $79.95 It will go to 500 stages if needed. it is rated -200f - +1700f From what I see about flue curing a manual thermostat like the ranco etc 111000 may be a better bet.

 

[leverhead]

I was ramping it up in 1 degree stages, I wasn't bright enough to do it during the day time. The yellowing was pretty much boring babysitting. The first ramp went from roughly 100 F to 130 F over about 12 hours, then 12 hours at that temp. The second ramp doesn't seem so fussy for time and goes from 130 F to 165 F, then it stays there until the stems are dry. So one channel there, input to sense a thermocouple and an output to operate a relay for heater power. The computer can use the internal clock and a program to tell what the temp should be. The Ranco worked fine for me for it's designed function as a thermostat, but wouldn't do the timing or ramping, I had to do temp rise manually. I've got a couple of controllers that are supposed have set points, I haven't tried to chase down what they're exact functions and how to do it yet. If they have a timer function in them I may be already good to go. If the heater issue can be worked out, the relative humidity issues can be handled the same way except it would just be opening and closing a vent. From there the only decision that would need to be made is when to leave yellowing behind and let the controls take over.

I've got a family function to go do, but will get back into this this evening.

 

[darren1979]

What are your guys thoughts on this thermostat http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-STOCK-...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item4ab9622c94 and also the humidity controller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Humidity-...?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item4abfd3dcb7 im looking to get a parts list up for the new year. Any pros or cons you guys see using these?