Log Curing Barn: questions

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Rock Knocker

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I'm brand new here, brand new to the whole tobacco grow and cure as well.

I'm in central MN and my first time Connecticut Broadleaf looks like it could be in Castro's garden. I recently moved to a good size chunk of land and I have a lot more field to plant with tobacco next year.

I need to learn a whole lot more but that's why I'm here. Personally I'm only interested in chew but if I can turn this into a small commercial operation and make some money selling some bails of tobacco, I'm interested. First I need to find out if Minnesota can reliably produce tobacco as easy as it was this year, MN is in a drought this summer but maybe that's good for the tobacco and a normal wet MN summer may ruin the fun.

I need to learn about curing though, l have enough cedar logs to build a kiln of any size, I just need plans or at least an idea of how it should work...
 

deluxestogie

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The essential math regarding required space is item 21 in the FAQ. Check the topics under Curing: other, in the Key Forum Threads. You might find the thread on burley barns particularly helpful.

The essential functional requirement, other than space in which to hang the stalk-cut tobacco, it the ability to vary the ventilation, depending on the ambient humidity. This often needs to be adjusted one way for daytime and another for night. I suspect that logs might be more of a challenge than sawn planks.

Bob
 

Knucklehead

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This is an example of how ventilation openings were opened and closed depending on the conditions in old barns. I’ve seen photos of some barns that had several such openings along the walls. Google tobacco barns and then click on the images tab. I use the garage door of my shop the same way. Close the doors during rain, turn on the fans. If needing more humidity, open the doors at night, close them during the day keeps the moisture in. If needing less humidity do the opposite. Depends on your climate in your area. Some guys can just put the leaf in the shade and it dries perfectly. In my area I could dry green or the leaf could rot, I have to fight back and forth trying to average about three day blocks of time.


You can see some of the vents opened in this photo.

View: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/230950287116181227/
 

Rock Knocker

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Hmmm. Vents might be a bit of a pain with my building plan. I'm going to make it a cordwood structure because that's what I have the material for and I need to learn and practice cordwood building before I start a more complex cordwood house.

Wall vents would have to be more like pipes mortared in with the cordwood than large openings. But a few windows, doors and vents around the eves or roof should work, it won't be huge.
 

deluxestogie

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The plank wood shed that I use for curing my tobacco has slight (unintentional) gaps between the vertical planks, one window (which is fitted with a temp controlled fan) and a door, always left half-open, with the screen door closed. The luck of my typical curing weather means that this just works without a fuss. Tobacco curing barns are typically designed for simultaneously curing an acre or ten of whole stalks--meaning a vast quantity of potential moisture within the leaf and stalks. For a more typical home grow (say up to 300+ plants) simpler measures, combined with a fan, can usually do the job well.

It's worth noting that in the US, many families that have successfully grown tobacco for generations have found it difficult to make a profit, despite the enormous effort they expend to produce tobacco, and have gone to other crops.

You will definitely have to post pictures of your barn build along the way. I'm looking forward to seeing it.

Bob
 
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