Ripening and breaking of the leaf

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TigerTom

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Trabzon (Trapezond) is in the same family as Samsun. So I would consider Moldavian 456 an "Oriental" or "Turkish" variety. It should sun-cure well.

For air-curing other varieties, the temperature and humidity in the shade should be cool and moist enough to allow the leaf to fully change color to brown, before it dries.

Bob

Should it be harvested at ripe, or could it be harvested at mature as in other orientals?
 

roman1967

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[QUOTE = "deluxestogie, post: 191747, member: 14"]
All of the lower leaves, except Virginia (the last photo), appear to be ready to harvest and cure. If you plan to flue-cure your Virginia, then those leaves shown are ready for flue-curing. If you plan to air-cure or sun-cure the Virginia, then I would wait until they show the thickening of the other leaf photos.

Боб
[/ЦИТИРОВАТЬ]

all varieties I just wanted to dry completely in the shade.

I didn’t plan any smoky drying, and I don’t have anything for this, including knowledge, so far, let's go from simple to complex :)
 
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skychaser

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Yes, Skychaser lists Moldovan between burleys, but having grown it, I can say that it tastes nothing like a burley. That’s why I asked if @roman1967 knows for sure what Moldovan is.

pier
I got my seed with no info on it. I don't recall where I got it. It was quite a while ago but I think I got it from pollygon55 or from someone who got it from him. Roman's description of it is quite accurate. It is a large leafed very heavy producing plant with light colored leaves with white stems. It ripens before it blooms and is a medium to late bloomer. It air cures very easily to a light yellow/orangish brown color. Everything about it says white stemmed Burley to me. So if it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck..... you call it a duck. ?? http://nwtseeds.com/Moldovan_456.htm
 

roman1967

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I got my seed with no info on it. I don't recall where I got it. It was quite a while ago but I think I got it from pollygon55 or from someone who got it from him. Roman's description of it is quite accurate. It is a large leafed very heavy producing plant with light colored leaves with white stems. It ripens before it blooms and is a medium to late bloomer. It air cures very easily to a light yellow/orangish brown color. Everything about it says white stemmed Burley to me. So if it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck..... you call it a duck. ?? http://nwtseeds.com/Moldovan_456.htm
As far as I understood, one should not forget that there are several Moldovan tobaccos, both under numbers and without them.
Here is an example of describing just tobacco "Moldavskiy"

Average Height of a tobacco bush: 165-185cm.
Average ripe leaf size: 35x22
Leaf color: Light Green
Productivity: Good
Disease resistance: Disease resistance good
One of the most famous varieties of the so-called "spicy" tobaccos, commonly used to create English-style blends. Moldavian is considered to be a pirate tobacco, the aroma of which is not only felt, but is the leader in any mixture - if, of course, its quantity is significant. After harvesting, the tobacco leaves are dried in the sun and then conditioned in a dense stream of smoke from a burning tree. It cures well; after drying, the color of the leaf is light brown. Fermentation or long-term aging of dry tap tobacco is desirable. Strength on a 10-point scale is about 5. With this type of tobacco it is quite easy to work, even with little experience.
 

roman1967

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My first crop harvested according to your advice, after lying in a dark shed for 2 days, completely turned yellow, no traces of chlorophyll remained
I strung the leaves on cords, signed the varieties and the number of breaking and hung in the shade, in a well-ventilated barn
Virginia 202 still shows no signs of maturity, although it's already 60 days after planting
 

roman1967

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I suspect that some of my leaves are still overripe, I have little experience.
Yesterday I hung them on cords after languishing (baking), and today they are already dry, crumbling from the touch.
Probably they should be thrown out, they are unlikely to be suitable for smoking
 

Knucklehead

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I suspect that some of my leaves are still overripe, I have little experience.
Yesterday I hung them on cords after languishing (baking), and today they are already dry, crumbling from the touch.
Probably they should be thrown out, they are unlikely to be suitable for smoking

Did they dry green or brown? If they are brown, don’t throw them away, some varieties can take months or years of aging before the flavor tastes as it should. We use home built kilns to “speed” age our tobacco, which provides the perfect temperatures and humidity to age the leaf in one to two months, rather than years. Naturally aging can take a long time because there are only a couple of times each year when the right temperatures and humidity intersect to cause the natural fermentation. A couple examples of home built kilns.


 

roman1967

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Thank you, I have already looked at your crafts
The leaves were yellow, a little brown
I am here in parallel reading a book about tobacco growing in the USSR, published in 1928, in it experts indicate that the quality of overripe leaves is worse, and they later retain moisture worse
I have already made a fermentation cabinet for myself, I can maintain a temperature there of 45-50 degrees Celsius for a long time
I will ferment tobacco in vacuum packaging, without oxygen, this speeds up and improves the fermentation process and makes it easier to maintain the necessary moisture, although I can do the same as you do, put a container with water, or a multicooker with water
In the closet, I make myself under pressure sauced tobacco plugs for the pipe
 

roman1967

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maybe someone will be able to scan and translate you, speeds up the process, reduces costs, makes storage easier, since tobacco being in vacuum packages is "sterilized", plus the ability to increase the temperature, which further speeds up the process

VNITTI NPO "TOBACCO"
Features of fermentation of raw tobacco in conditions of limited air access

Technology of "Anaerobic" fermentation of aromatic tobacco raw materials in Uzbekistan
 

Knucklehead

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maybe someone will be able to scan and translate you, speeds up the process, reduces costs, makes storage easier, since tobacco being in vacuum packages is "sterilized", plus the ability to increase the temperature, which further speeds up the process

VNITTI NPO "TOBACCO"
Features of fermentation of raw tobacco in conditions of limited air access

Technology of "Anaerobic" fermentation of aromatic tobacco raw materials in Uzbekistan

Google translate produced a disappointing translation.
maybe someone will be able to scan and translate you, speeds up the process, reduces costs, makes storage easier, since tobacco being in vacuum packages is "sterilized", plus the ability to increase the temperature, which further speeds up the process

VNITTI NPO "TOBACCO"
Features of fermentation of raw tobacco in conditions of limited air access

Technology of "Anaerobic" fermentation of aromatic tobacco raw materials in Uzbekistan

I read as much of the dissertation as Google would allow. The computer translation was very incomplete and jumbled. I read that they are wrapping small bales of tobacco in plastic sheeting. I read temperatures reaching up to 80c which is 176f, or up to flue cure temperatures here for flue curing, however we do not use the plastic sheeting and the leaves are not in a bale. I could not determine whether the temperatures were a natural fermentation or they were introducing heat externally. Unlike pilon fermentation like South American/Caribbean countries use for fermenting cigar leaf using huge pipes of leaf inside a warehouse, these tests seem to be performed using small bales of tobacco wrapped in plastic sheeting. I notice the study stated the process improved the combustion of the leaf which I found interesting. It also stated that it was a new process which would rule out a flue cure or a pilon method. They seem to have been measuring moisture and gases like oxygen, carbon dioxide, and other gases during the tests.
Could you tell me if the heat is from fermentation inside the bales or from an outside heat source?
 

roman1967

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That's right, hermetically sealed plastic bags
Heat comes from external sources, heating up to a temperature of 80 Celsius, that is, without reaching the critical melting point of nicotine of 84 degrees

Three experiments were done at 50, 60 and 70 degrees, with different levels of CO2 and O2
We measured the rate of fermentation, weight loss, the amount of mold during storage under different conditions, the amount of microflora, even frozen storage, the content of various acids in tobacco
the amount of mold on the starting material after normal fermentation decreases, when heated to 80 degrees without access to oxygen, the amount of mold decreased even more
I will definitely try, but in glass jars
 

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roman1967

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Guys, I forget to ask.
One and the same kind of tobacco, on several bushes, a leaf with a petiole, and on several without a petiole (sessile), does this happen or not ????
 
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deluxestogie

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a leaf with a petiole, and on several without a petiole (sessile)
Are you referring to a single plant, or multiple plants? (A photo would be interesting.) If you see different leaf morphology on two separate plants, then their genetics are not the same. Could be a different variety, or it might be that the seed was open pollinated, or that the variety itself is not genetically stable.

I have never seen both sessile and petiolate leaves on the same tobacco plant.

Bob
 

roman1967

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Thanks.
I just thought that this could not be, it is not for nothing that there is no information about this "parliament" on the network.
Variety "parliament" 4 bushes with sessile leaves (white-pink flower), 6 bushes with petioles (red flower)

Apparently the traders poured whatever they got into the packaging, I already hung everything on cords, I will have to sort it out later
 

santisimo

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Tell me, the leaves begin to ripen after the tobacco blooms or may ripen earlier
Well, depending on the strain sometimes the bottom leaves ripen early than blossoming. Last year my virginias gold were too late ripening where MD609 were ready only in two months... i every week check the bottom leaves and begin to harvest when color changing... good luck!!
 
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