Mark that is the controller I use, worked well last year. Never had any problems Russ
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- Thread starter marksctm
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marksctm
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Thanks knucks, that's the way to go. with free shipping now, it's hard to pass up the Ranco for 50 bucks.
Drbob you are right on.
The inside is 29 W x 22.5 D x 59 H, (22 cubic feet ?) I think?
Temp in room where freezer is, 65 F
Freezer is tight and seal is 1 inch wide and good.
The humidity was running right where you said it should be for test at 94 to 96%
I took a paint brush for models ( 1/4 inch round ) and put between seal and freezer to vent a little just to see the effect, and that's why the humidity dropped to the low 80s. You nailed that on the head.
And that's where it stayed. 119F at 80% humidity.
I never owned a freezer before and didn't know the racks had coils in them, that's cool. ( no pun intended )
It's a shame you can't reverse the cooling system, and run like a heat pump and heat the coils instead of cooling, but what do I know.
So that's were i'm at now.
Drbob you are right on.
The inside is 29 W x 22.5 D x 59 H, (22 cubic feet ?) I think?
Temp in room where freezer is, 65 F
Freezer is tight and seal is 1 inch wide and good.
The humidity was running right where you said it should be for test at 94 to 96%
I took a paint brush for models ( 1/4 inch round ) and put between seal and freezer to vent a little just to see the effect, and that's why the humidity dropped to the low 80s. You nailed that on the head.
And that's where it stayed. 119F at 80% humidity.
I never owned a freezer before and didn't know the racks had coils in them, that's cool. ( no pun intended )
It's a shame you can't reverse the cooling system, and run like a heat pump and heat the coils instead of cooling, but what do I know.
So that's were i'm at now.
marksctm
Well-Known Member
Thanks Russ, I thought someone here used one but I didn't know who.
Thanks,
Mark..... on those shelves with the coils, I cut the piping to them when I gutted the compressor and all mechanical/electrical. Note: those coils/piping have oil in them. On my shelves, I removed them, squirted soapy water in one end of the coil, then blew it through with compressed air. Then, repeated from the other end, Did this a couple times, then put shelves back in place. No oily smell or drips. now.
skychaser
Well-Known Member
Well, all I can say is...Give Peace a Chance. muahahaha
marksctm
Well-Known Member
Man that just ain't right!
I'm really starting to hate that song.
The person I got the freezer from, her son had a party and spray painted that verse in blaze orange on the door and every damn time I look at it I hear that freaking song in my head.
I had a half a inch in a can of some pvc primer that was removing it but I knocked the can over and only removed (give) off the door, but got one hell of a buzz cleaning up the primer.
I told Skychaser then he got the song stuck in his head.
those coils can be reversed. just like a heat pump! many refrigerators do that in the defrost cycle. I thought about that but it isnt really practical for heating over 100 degrees. Now you have found how important a good door seal is for humidity control. I do use venting in my curing chamber the valve in the exhaust stack controlls the ventilation rate to maintain the desired humidity level.
Bob
marksctm
Well-Known Member
Drbob,
Do you have an opening for air intake, or just the ball valve for vent?
Thanks...
Chris the attached photos should help explain what I did. the original hole on top of the freezer is 1 1/2" reduced to 1" and I added a 2' peice of pipe for chimmeny for draft. The ball valve is 1" and works just fine. The vent hole on the bottom of the freezer is 1 1/2" and has a plate to close it off. It has been left open all the time, As long as it is in the bottom of the chamber it can be left open. Warm air wants to rise so leakage there is not a problem during operation. I am always venting a little anyway The photo of the vent was taken during construction the insulation of course has been removed since
Bob
marksctm
Well-Known Member
Man Bob I thank you so much for posting those, I searched yesterday for those pictures and never could find them. I wanted to look at yours before I took the hole saw mine.
This setup is the one that's been stuck in my mind since I first saw it, and the goal I'm shooting for.
Thank you
This is the arrangement I used for my exhaust - now, I would use a bigger pipe at the outlet, but probably the same valve. Sloping it down allows condensation to drain, and I do get that.
I also found it easier to control RH in the chamber with a makeshift lid on the crockpot.
I also found it easier to control RH in the chamber with a makeshift lid on the crockpot.
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So as I understand it you put sour mash in the crockpot and ..............
-- j
marksctm
Well-Known Member
Ok, is this close on your wiring?
Temperature probe out of top of Ranco
110 feed to the bottom Ranco,
switched 110 out of ranco to receptacle
crock pot plugged in to receptacle ?
Whats running out of the top of receptacle in to center of freezer ? and
Whats running out from center of the freezer and runs to the left ?
Or do I have it ass backwards ?
Thanks Lefty
http://fairtradetobacco.com/showthread.php?1694-kiln
LeftyRighty's build. Check out pictures starting with post 12. Dude does some neat work.
LeftyRighty's build. Check out pictures starting with post 12. Dude does some neat work.
marksctm
Well-Known Member
Thanks knucks,
That helps,
I see a lot more now, and can see now it's mounted on the side.
So as I understand it you put sour mash in the crockpot and ..............
not the condensate if prefer.... something to consider, though..... Do you think it's worth a try?
Might improve the flavor of my tobacco.
marksctm
Well-Known Member
After looking at the pictures that knucks pointed me to, I did have it ass backwards.
The 110 feed must plug in at top to thermostat area, then down.
I was going by just this picture,
And this is the one I should of been looking at.
Makes better since now I see the whole thing.
So are you using the water heater thermostat as sort of a limit switch for protection, right??
Thanks...
yeah, that's all the thermostat does, cuts power if heat gets too high, so I don't roast/toast the tobacco if SHTF.
marksctm
Well-Known Member
That's cool, I can go ahead and get the water heater thermostat, and set it up for use, then when I can get the Ranco, I can do the up grade and use the heater thermo for the limit switch. cool beans.
Thanks Lefty,
absolutely! the water heater thermostat can be used as a limit switch. If you do go that route get the UPPER water heater thermostat. Not the lower thermostat as i told you before. Thermostats can stick and the overheat protection on the upper thermostat is a safety feature. The upper thermostat has a overheat protect limit included and it shuts off the heating elements in case of a dangerous overheat situation. usually around 190 degrees and it must be reset in case it trips
Dr.Bob
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