Soil Test

[dkh2]

My soil test for this year came back and on the exact same day as last year
How I swung that...I'll never know
But all except a few things are lower. The ph went from 6.4 to 5.6 all I added after last years test was Sulfur
But still the other measurements are some what lower but some are still listed as very high.
They emailed me the results in PDF format but I did a screen capture and it tends to get a little blurry.
I'll upload the PDF file but it would require Adobe reader for any one to read it

This Years Last Years

 

[dkh2]

Is there any soil experts here ?
I grew 50 plants in a 25 by 15 foot area where these two
soil tests were taken now in my mind I was expecting a big drop
in the stuff in the soil but not so much and an increase in Zinc ????
I took 6 samples around the area at 8 to 12 inches deep then stirred them up real good
then took one cup or so out and sent those in both times
Does any one here have a comment ?
Could you guys take a look at the results for me ? both years are needed to make a good observation

 

[deluxestogie]

You seem to have used good sampling technique, so I would trust the analysis.

1. I'm not a soil expert.
2. Last year's plants were provided 7.5 sq. ft. per plant, which is about double what they seem to need, so I'm not surprised that the nutrients have not dropped significantly.
3. The pH is low enough that I would suggest adding some Ag Lime (per manufacturer recommendation). Some of the minerals, though abundant, will not be absorbed if the pH is too acidic.

Bob

 

[LeftyRighty]

I don't see the problem here !
It's not like soil is a homogenious material.
You added sulfur - I'd expect the pH to drop.
and after a season of growing, the P and K would be less, and the available P & K ions would even more reduced due to the pH.

I don't know why they're recommending more sulfur - seems counter to adding Lime.

 

[dkh2]

When is the best time to add lime and also when is to late ?
Any one know ?

 

[LeftyRighty]

Lime should be tilled into the soil in the fall, as it takes several months to effectively amend the soil.

However, if you really need it, get it in the ground as soon as possible - partial effectivenous is better than none! Spread it over the soil now, and til the soil as soon as it can be worked in the spring.

 

[dkh2]

I got 3 and a half months until it's warm enough to plant out side.
This is the first weekend with out snow on my little patch in a month.
Hopefully it's a enough time to do some good.

 

[BarG]

Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

BarG's soil test.

 

[BarG]

When asked what was to be growing , vegetabeles and tobacco were specified. Area tested given was 1/3 acre. There is a co-op here that may mix for me about 40 miles away. The closest I could get with common mixes came up short on potash, according to fertilizer calculater at bottom of report.[ 5-2-6...10-4-12]

 

[dkh2]

Is that the first soil test for your growing area ?
My first one they never mentioned adding Lime the second one they did.
I've read that the PH for Tobacco should be 5.8
My first test the PH was 6.4 and didn't recommend any lime be added
the 2nd test it was 5.6 and recommended 1.5 tons of lime per acre
Also my Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium and Calcium levels are high to very high
although they did come down from the first test I'm hoping that they will come down more
after this years " Crop "

 

[BarG]

dkh2, I'm still trying to wrap my mind around this as it is my first report. I'll welcome any insight you have to offer. I reported 1/3 acre to be tested. so recomendations are based on per 1000sq' area. Actual grow area is 5000 sq' about 1/3 of 1/3 acre. Is my ph to low so I need the lime ?

 

[BarG]

I'm not into being spoon fed info but when i'm out of my element? I don't mind doing a a little research and such but it's hard finding reliable sources sometimes. Experience is the best teacher.

 

[deluxestogie]

Tim,
At first glance, my impression is that your only significant issue is the pH. I would suggest simply buying a bag of agricultural lime (like pelletized dolomitic limestone) and following the application rate printed on the bag.

Bob

 

[Jitterbugdude]

Ya gotta love soil tests.. Here's my take:

The very first thing that stands out is you have NO NITROGEN available. That should be your primary concern! Secondly, you are on the low side for Potassium, that should be the second thing you address. You are also pushing it for being high in Calcium, Magnesium and Sulfur. I personally would not be concerned about the pH if it was me. I 'd really worry about the lack of nitrogen. As for adding lime to raise the pH of soil. I differ from most people in my thinking on that subject. It is my belief that you should add calcium if you are DEFICIENT in calcium, not to raise the pH. If you balance your soil with nutrients that favor whatever you are growing , your pH will correct itself. In your case you already have a lot of Calcium but you are low in Potash. This might not be practical in your case but adding wood ashes to your soil will add Potassium and raise your pH... my 2 cents for the day

 

[BarG]

I'll see that .02 and raise ya .02.

 

[dkh2]

Nitrogen leeches real quick compared to other elements
and in some cases recommended to add every 4 to 6 weeks until
the plants are 6 weeks shy of harvesting and also to add 50% in the " Nitrate Form "
here is the suggested fertilizing directions I got from my soil test if it helps

"Comments:
1/2 OF THE FERTILIZER SHOULD BE APPLIED AS A PREPLANT APPLICAITON. THE REMAINDER SHOULD BE
APPLIED AT THE FIRST OR SECOND CULTIVATION OR WITHIN 3 WEEKS AFTER TRANSPLANTING. 50% OF
THE NITROGEN SHOULD BE IN THE NITRATE FORM. FLUE CURED TOBACCO FERTILIZER SHOULD
CONTAIN AT LEAST 1.2% ELEMENTAL MAGNESIUM WITH 50% BEING WATER SOLUBLE AND SHOULD NOT
CONTAIN MORE THAN 2-3% CHLORINE. PLANTS SHOULD BE MONITORED DURING THE GROWING SEASON
WITH A PLANT TISSUE SAMPLE."

 

[deluxestogie]

I'm certainly not a soil scientist. I'll address two points.

1. Is there really zero nitrogen, or is it that the nitrogen was not measured? Might be worth a phone call to the lab.
2. The low pH chemically impedes the transport of a number of elements into the roots, even when they are present in abundance.

Confession: I have never done soil analysis on my tobacco beds. I heavily blend them with thoroughly composted manure each year (0.5, 0.5, 0.5), and add lime if I notice significant leaf mottling, which can indicate magnesium or manganese deficiency. The absorption of both Mg and Mn is substantially reduced by low pH, which is usually the cause of symptoms, rather than a soil deficiency in Mg and Mn. I guess that my first unsatisfactory crop will force me to change my ways.

Bob

 

[Jitterbugdude]

I'll put my disclaimer here.... I 'm not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to soils but (there's always a but..)
It is true the soil pH effects nutrient availability.Too high or too low and the plants cannot take up the nutrients. I do not however, know what "too high or too low" is. As for nitrogen, the last time I had my soil tested (don't ask when) they listed 2 different types of nitrogen. I also noticed this now infamous soil test indicated that the soil conductivity was only 45 micro mhos ( now called seimens). That is an extremely low number. Typically soils should be 200 to 300 . This soil too me looks to be "dead" as in there is no significant microbial activity. It would benefit greatly from the addition of compost and manure ( added n the off season) as well as some mineral rock powder such as Desert Dyna-min, Soft Rock Phosphate or Azomite. Man... all this talk, you guys are really going to force me to get a soil test done soon.

Randy B

ps..oh.. and dkh2, Re the comments from your soil lab "... and should not contain more than 2-3% chlorine..." I would say, it should not contain ANY chlorine. Chlorine kills the microbes in your soil. You should do everything in your power to cultivate those critters.

 

[deluxestogie]

Some helpful info from Clemson University Extension

Field surveys have shown a significant number of fields with pH less than 5.6. Greater than ninety percent of the samples had P reading high or greater, while 90% or more of the samples had K readings medium or better. This indicates producers should pay close attention to soil testing and adding lime to get the pH into a desirable range. Download 93 page guide.

Bob

 

[dkh2]

ps..oh.. and dkh2, Re the comments from your soil lab "... and should not contain more than 2-3% chlorine..." I would say, it should not contain ANY chlorine. Chlorine kills the microbes in your soil. You should do everything in your power to cultivate those critters.

I am sure that is meant for the mass production guys because of costs.
and also water soluble meaning it tends to leach out more readily. I think there trying
to get people away from any chlorine fertilizer without getting sued in today's sue happy atmosphere.