Teck 1 disassembly

[JohnnyM]

Hey folks,

I bought a Teck 1 a couple of weeks ago. Although it works sorta OK out of the box, I need to shim the blades. (Too many chunks.) Do any Teck 1 owners know how to get the wheel off so I can do this? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[DrBob]

to remove the wheel first you need to remove the nut and then pull the wheel off. Penetrating oil is a great help. Do not hammer on the wheel as it may bend the shaft destroying the machine. I found that if i clamped the main shaft with a vice grip I could break the wheel loose by twisting the wheel back and forth and gently pulling on the wheel.
Alternatively you may remove the blades and shim them seperately. If you will measure the blade to bed clearance prior to removing the blades with feeler gauges you will have a good idea how much to shim each blade. I have found that .001" -.003" will give the best cut. For shim stock I used feeler gauge material the best thing for the job. If you measure the clearance before removing the blade and find the clearance to be .009" for example a shim of .007" will bring you right in the range. You do not want the blades to strike the bed knife as it will cause the blades to roll over.
Sharpening the blades is best done on a whet stone or leather strop. Bevel angle of 15 degrees is what I used,do NOT sharpen the bed side of the knife as that will destroy the blade.
Every time the blades are sharpened the blade to bed clearance is increased.
Extreme care is needed when removing the screws holding the blades because you cant get a replacement screw. they are special.

Do not skimp on the penetrading oil! be patient.

 

[JohnnyM]

Well, took your suggestions and I couldn't get the wheel off. I'm going to abandon the project for now for fear of destroying this machine. There's no way to get to the inside screws holding the blades without the wheel being off the chassis without stripping them (fragile and irreplaceable). So I'll work with what I got and save up for a Powermatic. Thanks again for your input.

 

[Knucklehead]

Did you get he nut off? How about a pulley puller to remove the wheel? Keep soaking it in PB Blaster or another good penetration oil for a week or so first.

 

[JohnnyM]

Got the nut off no sweat. Getting the wheel to follow was impossible, even when clamping the main shaft with a vice grip. Guess I'll keep spraying it and see what happens. Will keep you all posted.

 

[johnlee1933]

Got the nut off no sweat. Getting the wheel to follow was impossible, even when clamping the main shaft with a vice grip. Guess I'll keep spraying it and see what happens. Will keep you all posted.

Try tapping the end of the shaft a few times with a hardwood block every time you squirt it. I find the light vibration helps the oil penetration. It does take time. I said "TAP" it not belt it.

 

[Knucklehead]

These three jaw pullers are much better. I was about to leave earlier and posted the first picture I came to. All mechanics will have a set and if you know the guy, he can have it off in about a minute and probably won't charge you. Soak in penetrating oil for a week before you take it to him.

 

[Fisherman]

Heat it with torch?

 

[BarG]

Resell the machine and buy a powermatic? You need to get that sucker crankin in case the lights go out.

 

[DrBob]

as the knucklehead says a puller is a good way to go. Just be patient. That penetrating oil takes a while, give it a few days to soak in

 

[JohnnyM]

Re: Teck 1 disassembly—a follow up

Good news: I got the wheel off. Bad news: the shaft snapped. Now looking to see if I can get something fabricated without it costing me an extemity (I know, good luck with that). End of story (for now). Thanks again for all your suggestions.

 

[Knucklehead]

What happened?

 

[Jitterbugdude]

Sounds like the amount of torque he applied was greater than the torsional shear stress limit of the material..

 

[johnlee1933]

Sounds like the amount of torque he applied was greater than the torsional shear stress limit of the material..

Knucks, In case you didn't know that's smart alec for "He broke it." LOL

 

[JohnnyM]

Knucks, In case you didn't know that's smart alec for "He broke it." LOL

Precisely. Right at the part where the shaft tapers off from 25/64" to 5/16". After I had it soaking in PB for about 2 weeks. Feeling like Charlie Brown. Will be posting pictures at some point so you all can admire my handiwork.

 

[Knucklehead]

Sounds like the amount of torque he applied was greater than the torsional shear stress limit of the material..

All right you wisenheimers. The nut was already off so where do the torque and torsional stress come in?

 

[Fisherman]

Was it a full moon when it snapped???
Could have been a planetary kanundrum.
Or rust................

 

[leverhead]

Precisely. Right at the part where the shaft tapers off from 25/64" to 5/16". After I had it soaking in PB for about 2 weeks. Feeling like Charlie Brown. Will be posting pictures at some point so you all can admire my handiwork.

Is the worm a separate part from the shaft, pinned or keyed? Post some pictures soon, and I'll try to tell you what it would cost.

 

[DrBob]

Is the worm a separate part from the shaft, pinned or keyed? Post some pictures soon, and I'll try to tell you what it would cost.

Yes leverhead the worm is a seperate part. It is held on with a set screw. pretty easy part to make.The shaft that is. 1910 technology

 

[Matty]

IF I had a lathe and where to make one, it would probably take me around 4hrs. to get it done. A simple piece to make except getting the taper right (lots of measuring, some trig., and setting up on the lathe). Of course getting the dimensions right is also highly criticle. There may also be a way to repair the shaft, depending how it broke and the tools available to the "repairman".